Okay, I promised a maquette lesson so here it is…
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| Squash McStretch in maquette form |
First, let’s begin with the materials – they include: wire, Super Sculpey (1 package), a plaque (for a base), 2 wood screws (and a screw driver), Propoxy (lead based), rubber cement thinner, Q-tips, light gray acrylic paint (no enamel), aluminum foil and sculpting tools.
Some notes about these materials:
The wire should be pliable and not too thick.
The plaque or base can be found at Wal-Mart, Michael’s or in the craft section of hobby and art stores.
The Propoxy should be used with rubber gloves, It looks like a Tootsie Roll…once mixed you have about 20 minutes until it hardens. Some folks use this product to adhere joints and /or to make pad forms for the hands and feet.
The rubber cement thinner and Q-tips are used to smooth the Sculpey- before it is baked. This is optional! The same smoothness can be had by smoothing using just your fingers.
The aluminum foil is to cover large areas like the chest area to lessen the weight on the character’s legs and feet.
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| Let’s use this mouse as an example. |
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| The mouse broken down into simple forms |
Design your character (6-8 inches in height) in 2D forms on paper - this will help you solve any design problems and offers the added challenge of meeting established proportions.
The first step is to build an armature. Begin with making a “U” shaped feet (for wood screws). Begin with one “U” shaped foot; work up the leg to the hip across to the other hip and down to the other “U” shaped foot. From here you have options, you can cut the wire and go to the middle of the hips and begin the spine…or wrap the wire tightly around leg and work your way to the spine. If you decide to cut the wire – you will have use Propoxy to adhere the wire to the spine.
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| Here’s a drawing of how an armature might be constructed. |
Remember, pay special attention to the proportions. If you have trouble “eyeing” the proportions then use a caliber, or a pencil or paintbrush or even a ruler to measure.
From the middle of the hips work up the spine to the neck, continue upward to create a basic sphere or oval shape for the head and then work the wire back down the neck to where the shoulders will be located - from here you can create a chest cavity or just cut the wire and form the chest cavity and adhere it with Propoxy.
Now you can fashion the arms and the pads for the hands and then use the Propoxy to adhere them.
Cover any of the character’s large areas (could be the head, chest, butt or stomach) with aluminum foil. It will save on the weight and the stress on the character.
Once you have the armature completed – screw the character onto the base. Pose the character in the final position. By working on the base it will keep you from flattening your character,
Now begin applying the Sculpey over the armature and the other forms. As you work with the Sculpey, it will become soft. When this happens, take a break and place your character in the refrigerator for 5 or 10 minutes….and then you can continue sculpting the character.
Some folks like to create the body- bake it, and then place the clothes over top. Others continue “straight” ahead create the body and then the clothes and then bake it. Either way works!
Remember to smooth before you bake! If you use the rubber cement thinner and Q-tips - keep in mind you are essentially melting the Sculpey.
Preheat the oven (check the Sculpey box for details)
Moisten the base with a very damp washcloth- just make sure it won’t crack or split during the baking process.
COVER ALL DELICATE OR THIN AREAS WITH LITTLE TENTS OF ALUMINUM FOIL!!! Areas like the hands, noses, snouts, ears, hair, thin cloth- all need to be covered or they will be burned.
DO NOT USE A MICROWAVE!
Once the character is in the oven, check it from time to time. For best results when the baking is completed, turn the oven off and allow the character to cool in the oven. This step helps avoid the cracking of the ankles in the Sculpey. Sculpey is pliable when warm so if it’s jostled, cracking can occur. Turn off the oven go for a 10 minute walk or watch the news- then remove the cool character from the oven.
There you have it. You can leave the character the natural color, or paint it a light blue or light gray. Since these maquettes are 3D references it makes sense to keep them light so you can see the proportions and details.
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| a close up of Squash’e BIG nose |
Have fun!